Working Small

A few weeks ago, I decided to spend some time doing spindle turning. To oversimplify, that’s when you put a stick on the lathe instead of a block of wood. The grain of a spindle runs the long way, from one end of the stick to the other. Think stair balusters or cocktail muddlers. In this case, I turned small sections of branches into simple vases.

From left to right, we have one silver maple, three sugar maple, and two beech. These aren’t really meant for whole bouquets. They have only a smallish hole in the top that does not get wider as it goes down the vase. To do that would be to make a hollow form–a whole different turning project. These are meant to be decorative as they are, or maybe hold a simple stem or two (no water). But they can show off some pretty wood features, and look nice in groupings.

A few weeks ago, I traveled to have dinner with some long-time friends. We met at a BYO restaurant (quite common in NJ), and we were all planning who was bringing what wine. So I thought it would be fun to bring everyone their own wine stoppers.

Left to right: 150 year old wood from barn, maple of unknown type, spalted sugar maple, lilac, sugar maple.

It was fun doing something simple and relatively quick. I think I’ll try to find time more often to do more of this. Besides, if I want to attend a craft market, I’ll need a decent stock of finished items to sell.

When I say relatively quick…. The steps in making a bottle stopper, are more than you might think:

1. Mount the rough stick of wood between two pointy centers and turn until it’s round. Make a tenon on one end.

2. Remove the pointy centers from the lathe and put a chuck and jaws on the motor end of the lathe. The jaws will hold the stick more firmly than pinching it between two points, and they don’t require you to support the stick on the other end.

3. Now that the other end is freely accessible (no pointy center holding it up), drill a hole in the end of the round blank.

4. Put away your drill and grab a different tool to tap the hole (cut screw threads on the inside of the hole).

5. Remove the wood from the chuck and jaws, remove the chuck from the lathe, and mount a new fixture on the lathe that has a screw sticking out that exactly matches the threads you just put on the inside of the hole.

6. Thread your stick onto this new fixture. You can now turn the shape of the stopper.

Sand and apply finish. Unscrew the finished wood from the lathe and screw in the metal piece.

A vase is similar, but you don’t have the steps to create threads or mount the wood on the threaded fixture. But the vase sticks out farther, so it’s a good idea to use the drilled opening as a place to put additional support, in the form of a pointy center.

Here’s the silver maple vase from above, mounted on the left in jaws, with added support of a cone-shaped center resting in it’s drilled opening. The live center should be comfortably snug, but not cranked in hard, and I promise you, that’s how I had it. But if you look closely, you’ll see that it cracked. (This is that same silver maple that keeps cracking on me–I think the tree was stressed when it fell.)

Can you see what I did to address the crack? Yup, made a shorter vase!

If you like these vases or bottle stoppers, I know a way you can get one of your own. Come over and turn one! I’ve already walked two people through turning their own vases. It’s fun! We would both get something out of it. I have a long term goal of teaching turning in a more formal setting, so I would love to get more experience teaching individually. And you get to try something new and go home with a nice project. For a total beginner, we’d need about 3 hours.

(These are also available for sale, but where’s the fun in that?!)

Workshop with Laurent Niclot

I’m a member of the Rochester-based Finger Lakes Woodturners Club. A couple times a year, they have well-known turners in to teach day long workshops. I went to one taught by Laurent Niclot. I was intrigued because he works in the less common areas of turning, and his creations are much more heavily influenced by art than craft. You can see some of his stuff here.

It was so much fun. He was a perfect instructor, and he really just wanted to help you turn whatever you were interested in. We each got to pick what we wanted to try–no predetermined project. I started with hollowing a mini vessel. I’ve never done hollowing before, and small seemed like a comfortable place to start.

The club provided small blocks of wet cherry and maple. I picked a cherry block, and immediately gravitated to one of my favorite shapes, influenced by Greek wine amphorae.

After shaping the outside and drilling a depth hole to define the inside bottom and give your hollowing tools a place to get in, it’s time to start hollowing.

Unknowingly, I picked a first-timer-friendly shape. The way I shaped the top shoulder made it easier to get the tool in there at enough of an angle. Even so, I was probably one of the slowest in the class. I’ve learned that I’m a bit less aggressive than most turners. but I figure if I enjoy it and I get to the end, who cares if I take longer? (If I ever get to the point of selling my turnings, I might think differently 🙂 )

The last step is parting the vase off from the waste end of the block. I don’t want to end at the current thin point in the photo above–that would be a heavy, clunky shape. Laurent helped me by showing me how he visualizes the “true” bottom and how to figure out the best way to uncover it.

Here it is finished and fresh off the lathe.

And here it is after it dried (remember, this was wet cherry), and I sanded and oiled it at home. It’s 3.5 inches tall and 2 inches wide at its widest.

I may be slow, but that didn’t take me ALL day. I had time to try a second project. So I mounted up another piece of cherry and learned about multi axis turning. My goal here is to turn a water droplet like what Laurent does.

Let’s break down the wood by sections to lay out what’s going to happen. From the left, we have the waste material next to the jaws. The fat part will be the body of the droplet. The flare (looks like the top part of a vase) will be partially turned away to create the bent tip of the droplet. Then the last cylinder portion is also waste.

Here’s the multi-axis part. I removed the waste at the top and I’ve loosened the wood in the jaws and skewed the wood so now the central axis it spins on is not the center of the wood. I’m about to cut on a different axis than above. When I start up the lathe again, I’ll just cut away some wood at the very top.

Here you can see how the section of the top that stuck out farther was the part that met my gouge and was cut away, while the side that didn’t stick out as far wasn’t cut at all. On the left side, you might also make out how the jaws do not have as firm a grip on the wood as they did when cutting on the primary axis. Because of this, light cuts are better–right up my alley!

When I cut away as much as I could (which was determined as the moment my arc of cutting almost met itself along the top rim), I squared it back in the jaws and got set up to manually rasp away the rest of the material. You can see pencil marks on some of what still needed to go. At this step, I learned that I really want a nice French rasp. What a fun tool to have.

I brought it home and finished the shaping (with some old metal rasps I found in Chris’ toolbox). Now all that’s left to do is mount it on my lathe and remove the waste at the bottom.

(In the background is a maple bowl I turned all the way to finished from semi-wet maple. My mom has this now, and I don’t think I have any other photos to share, but it’s very pretty.)

And finally, the finished cherry drop. I’ve seen multi-axis stuff before this, and usually dismissed it as something that aesthetically didn’t excite me. But I learned that the process is interesting, and I really like this shape. I’d like to find more ways to use this technique–but in a way that makes sense artistically, not simply as a way to make something quirky.

Finish turning, last of the butternut, ornaments

I have started bringing some of the smaller ones down to finish turn. The one farthest away is oak from my brother that I turned in the spring. The other four are maple from our backyard. They look good in the photo, but they have issues. I give them all a B- to B+.

Finish turned six of these guys. the American Beech also from my brother’s yard.

The last piece of butternut. I turned one in the usual way (top of bowl in the center of the log) and one as natural edge. I’m happy with this natural edge! Definitely getting there. It still needs to be sanded and sealed. I’ll try to remember to post a photo when that is done. We’ll see what the feather running down the middle looks like.

Some ornaments from scraps. Woods are (in no particular order), beech, ash, cherry, silver maple, sugar maple, lilac.

Left to right: lilac with bark left, butternut, cherry x 2, spalted maple. Merry Christmas!